When to Plant Potatoes

Garden potatoes can be planted 2 to 4 weeks before the average last frost date. The soil temperature should be at least 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. However, pay more attention to the soil than the calendar to determine planting time. The soil should not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work. Let it dry out a bit first. If you have a late and wet spring, you can plant later, through April (depending on location) or even June, especially in containers.

In cooler regions, the early-maturing potatoes are usually planted early to mid-April. In warmer regions, planting times range from September to February; in central Florida, gardeners plant potatoes in January; in Georgia, they plant in February.

See our Planting Guide for the best dates to plant by zip code or postal code.

How to Plant Potatoes

Potatoes for planting are called seed potatoes and are usually sold in bags or netting. Use certified (disease-resistant) seed potatoes from which eyes (buds) protrude. Do not confuse seed potatoes with potato seeds or grocery produce.

When you get them, break them free, lay them out in a tray (such as an old egg carton), and pop them somewhere bright and frost-free to sprout, such as an indoor windowsill. This is a process called chitting. It’s not essential, but chitting helps speed things along so that by the time the potatoes are planted, they’ll be primed and itching to send out roots.

As the video below shows, after a month of chitting, the potatoes produced stout, stocky, green sprouts, which is exactly what we’re after; we don’t want the long, pale sprouts you get when potatoes are left in the dark. But if you haven’t had a chance to chit your potatoes and it’s already time to plant, don’t worry—get them in the ground.

A great way to get more seed potatoes for free is to cut them in half. But only do this if they’ve got plenty of eyes, which appear as small dimples and are where the sprouts emerge from. For this reason, you want to place the end with the most eyes facing upwards.

At least 2 days before planting, use a clean, sharp paring knife to cut large potatoes into golf ball-size pieces, with one to two eyes each. This time allows the pieces to heal or form a protective layer over the cut surface, improving both moisture retention and rot resistance. Do not cut up seed potatoes that are smaller than a hen’s egg; plant them whole.

You’ll need a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight and fertile, loose, well-draining soil; hard or compacted soil leads to misshapen tubers. Ideally, the soil is slightly acidic (pH 5.8 to 6.5), and the soil temperature is at least 45º to 55ºF (7° to 13°C). In the fall, mix compost or organic matter into the soil. Learn more about compost, soil amendments, and preparing the soil for planting.)

Outside, prepare the planting area by simply spreading compost across the surface to a depth of around an inch or 3 cm. Potatoes are fairly hungry plants, so this extra nourishment will help to support good soil fertility and a strong harvest.

4 Methods of Planting Potatoes

There are different approaches to planting potatoes:

Due to a higher elevation compared to the coast, Bali’s lush mountainous, including Mount Batur and Mount Agung, are known to experience cooler and less humid conditions than the coastal region, and tend to receive increased rainfall, too. Nighttime temperatures are often cooler in the mountainous regions, too. Temperatures vary significantly according to elevation, so you should expect it to get colder as you reach the peak of Bali’s mountains.

December to February tend to be the wettest months to visit Mount Batur and Mount Agung. For the best chances of a clear day (and less muddy route), plan your trip between May and September when you have a better chance of a clearer day (and less muddy route!) If heading to the mountain areas of Bali, make sure to wear warm layers and be prepared for rain. It’s highly recommended to do the trek as part of a guided tour, just make sure to check the weather forecast before your trek!

Mount Batur weather

Mount Batur is one of Bali’s most active volcanoes, located in the northeast part of the island. It stands at an elevation of 1,717 metres above sea level and is a popular hiking destination. The average temperature at the summit of Mount Batur is around 15°C, making it significantly cooler than the surrounding lowlands. Temperatures can drop to as low as 10°C at night, so it’s important to bring warm clothing if you plan on hiking to the summit. During the day it becomes very hot – with an average yearly maximum temperature of 29°C at Mount Batur’s base.

Mount Batur receives around 1,700 – 2,500 mm of rainfall annually, with the majority falling during the wet season. During this period, the average monthly rainfall is between 200 mm and 350 mm, which makes hiking conditions challenging. The dry season runs from May to October, with lower rainfall and more sunny days. However, even during the dry season, there can still be occasional rain showers, so it’s important to be prepared with rain gear.

Mount Agung weather

Mount Agung is Bali’s highest volcano, standing at an elevation of 3,031 metres above sea level. The average temperature at the summit of Mount Agung is around 10°C, making it significantly cooler than the surrounding lowlands. At night, temperatures at the peak can drop to as low as 5°C, so warm clothing is necessary for those planning to hike to the summit. During the day Mount Agung can be quite hot, with an annual average maximum temperature of 30°C at Agung’s base – so bring layered clothing.

On average, Mount Agung receives around 2,500 – 2,900 mm of rainfall per year. The wettest months are in the rainy season from November to April, when heavy rain often makes hiking difficult. It’s best to come during the dry season (May to October) for safety and an enjoyable hike. However, even during the dry season, there can still be occasional rain showers, so it’s important to be prepared with rain gear.

What is the weather like in central Bali?

However, for pest control that also makes your outdoor space look better, consider adding a few plants that repel bugs. Whether it’s pots of fragrant lavender around the perimeter of your patio or citronella grass in your garden, these multi-tasking plants are pretty and serve a purpose. We spoke with several garden experts to give us some tips on what plants to use to keep gardens pest-free.

When you spend long summer evenings on the patio or in the backyard, keeping bugs and mosquitoes at bay is a top priority. Fortunately, there are many great outdoor mosquito repellent options available on the market.

01 of 18 Citronella Grass Credit: Primz/Getty Images The citronella candles on your patio are made with the oil that comes from this plant. “Citronella is by far the most popular plant that repels mosquitoes,” says garden expert Carmen Johnston. “It has a very pungent odor.” “I often place this in small eight-inch terra cotta pots and mix in with my centerpieces when entertaining outdoors,” she adds. “You can either use the clippings mixed in with arrangements or use the plant itself as the centerpiece.” Needs at least six hours of sunlight per day

Does best in an environment above 60 degrees

Requires infrequent but thorough watering

Hardiness Zone: Zones 9 through 11

02 of 18 Petunias Credit: gameover2012/Getty Images Petunias—sometimes called “nature’s pesticide”—can repel aphids, tomato hornworms, asparagus beetles, leafhoppers, and squash bugs. “Petunias are very easy to grow, and you can plant them in the ground or keep them potted,” says lifestyle expert Peyton Lambton. “They like sun, and I recommend buying transplants and placing them in light, well-drained soil in full sun after the last spring frost.” Plant where petunias can get at least five to six hours of sunlight per day

Do best in an area where they are in the sun all-day

Drought and heat tolerant. Water thoroughly once per week

Hardiness Zone: Zones 10 through 11

The Best Ways to Keep Slugs and Snails Out of Your Garden

03 of 18 Lavender Credit: Juliette Wade/Getty Images “Lavender has a fragrant smell that deters mosquitoes,” Johnston says. “I have this planted in clusters at the entryway of my garden, and I love those purple blooms. “It likes to be hot and dry, so it’s perfect for summer,” she adds. You can also apply lavender oil to your skin as a natural repellent. Does well in hot and dry weather

Needs full sun and well-drained soil to thrive

Hardiness Zone: Zones 5 through 9

04 of 18 Nasturtium Credit: Westend61/Getty Images Nasturtium is a colorful, edible flower that repels whiteflies, squash bugs, aphids, several beetles, and cabbage loopers. As if that’s not enough, it helps other plants in your garden, too. “They produce an airborne chemical that repels insects, protecting not only themselves but other plants in the grouping,” says landscaper Chris Lambton. “Plant these in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun,” he advises. “They should be regularly watered and deadheaded to promote blooming.” Does well in full sun and well-drained soil

Will grow, but not bloom, in partial shade

Needs watering and deadheading regularly to promote blooming

Hardiness Zone: Zones 2 through 11

05 of 18 Rosemary Credit: ChiccoDodiFC/Getty Images You probably know rosemary best as an herb that adds flavor to your dishes, but it also helps keep bugs away. “This one is another plant perfect for summer heat because it likes to be dry,” Johnston says. “It is one of my absolute favorite smells, but mosquitoes can’t stand it.” “You can plant it in containers, but it also works well as a hedge,” she suggests. Since a rosemary plant adds texture to arrangements, she says, why not place it in an outdoor centerpiece to repel bugs and provide some eye candy at the same time? Does best in warm, well-drained environments

Keep in an area with full sunlight

Overly wet soil can cause roots to die

Hardiness Zone: Zones 7 through 10

06 of 18 Basil Credit: Sébastien Bonaimé/Getty Images Nothing beats basil as a go-to for making pesto and a host of other Mediterranean-style dishes, and now add “bug repellant” to its resume. “It’s an annual herb and repels houseflies and mosquitoes,” says Chris Lambton. “Ensure that the plant gets six to eight hours of full sun daily, and its soil should be moist and well-drained,” he continues. “When you see blossoms start to form, pinch them off at the base to ensure the best-tasting leaves.” This versatile herb can also treat mosquito bites, Johnston adds. She recommends rolling several leaves between your hands to release their natural oil and then applying them to your bite to ease swelling. Needs six to eight hours of full sun daily, so plant in an area that gets full sun

Soil needs to be moist but well-drained

Hardiness Zone: Zone 10

07 of 18 Lemongrass Credit: dangdumrong/Getty Images Lemongrass is closely related to citronella and repels mosquitoes, but unlike citronella, it’s edible and is commonly used in Southeast Asian cooking. “It can grow three to five feet tall and adds lots of extra height and texture to the garden,” Johnston says, “so it needs a larger container.” Grow in a spot with full sun

Soil needs to be well-drained

Needs room to grow, so leave 24 to 36 inches between plants

Hardiness Zone: Zones 8 through 11

08 of 18 Mint Credit: Vaivirga/Getty Images Mint leaves serve as a refreshing addition to dishes and cocktails, but the plant they come from offers another bonus. “It’s a perennial that repels mosquitoes,” says Peyton Lambton. “Mint is easy to grow, but once established in a garden, it can be tricky to remove,” she warns. “Plant it in a pot instead and frequently pick its leaves to keep the plant at its best. You can grow the plant indoors all winter long—and it will help keep flies outside, too.” Hard to get rid of once established in a garden

Grows best in full to partial shade

Requires moist soil, but not too wet, or roots will rot

Hardiness Zone: Zone 4

09 of 18 Catnip Catnip. Credit: Akchamczuk / Getty Images Catnip is a member of the mint family but bears a separate mention. It’s non-toxic to pets, although it’s known to make some cats crazy and others mellow. More importantly, it makes mosquitoes and other flying insects go away. Essential oil from catnip is an active ingredient in many all-natural insect repellents, but you don’t need to extract its oil to make it work for you. You can simply crush the fresh leaves and stems onto your skin and clothing. Grows best in full sunlight

Needs good, well-drained soil

Hardiness Zone: Zones 3 through 5

10 of 18 Mosquito Shoo Geranium Credit: Fenneke Smouter/Getty Images This descriptively named plant was biogenetically engineered as a hybrid of scented geranium and citronella grass. The result is a plant with cute but unspectacular flowers and leaves that, when crushed, release a fragrance similar to lemon furniture polish. It’s also known as the citronella plant, mosquito plant geranium, or citrosa geranium, which inaccurately implies that it contains mosquito-repelling citronella. It actually produces a scent that smells like citronella but is not the real thing. Perhaps that’s why, despite its name, its effectiveness in keeping mosquitoes away is debatable. Can be grown in full sun to partial shade

Requires average water and fertilization

Hardiness Zone: Zones 10 through 11

11 of 18 Marigolds Credit: Courtesy of the National Garden Bureau, Inc. (http://ngb.org/) The bad news is that these ubiquitous annuals have a fragrance that many of us find unpleasant. The good news is that mosquitoes, wasps, and hornets also find their smell objectionable. Gardeners would do well to find some real estate around their vegetable beds for marigolds. Their vibrant autumnal colors attract butterflies and bees while their scent drives away pests that would otherwise enjoy a good meal of fresh vegetables. Grow best in full sun to partial shade

Thrives in soil with good drainage, and can tolerate drier soil conditions

Hardiness Zone: Zones 2 through 11

12 of 18 Eucalyptus Credit: Flickr member dotsara Eucalyptus has an overpowering minty, citrusy smell that mosquitoes find quite offensive, making this tree somewhat effective as a mosquito repellent and more so at repelling termites, fleas, and bugs. Nevertheless, planting a eucalyptus tree near an entrance may help keep mosquitoes from entering your house. If you crush the leaves and place them inside the house as in a potpourri, they’ll release their oil, keep mosquitoes from wanting to hang around, and smell fantastic. Another idea is to shred eucalyptus tree trimmings, turn them into mulch, and spread it in the yard anywhere mosquitoes are a problem. Grows best in full sun

Somewhat drought-tolerant, generally only needs watering weekly

Hardiness Zone: Zones 7 through 10

13 of 18 Lantana Credit: © Marie Iannotti Many varieties of lantana offer a kaleidoscope of colors on each bloom. This aromatic bedding plant is highly prized for attracting bees and hummingbirds, but it also deters mosquitoes better than most plants. When they’re rubbed or crushed, lantana leaves and flowers emit a strong citronella-like scent. You can also dry out lantana leaves, crush them, and then toss them in your fire pit to deter mosquitoes. Avoid rubbing crushed lantana leaves on your skin though, because its oil can be irritating. Needs six or more hours of sunlight per day

Requires thorough watering once per week

Allowing the soil to fully dry out is harmful to plant

Hardiness Zone: Zones 9 through 11 (perennial); Zones 1 through 8 (summer annual)

14 of 18 Bee Balm Credit: Patrick Standish Bee balm is a versatile perennial garden favorite that blooms in a firework of color all summer long. It’s prized for attracting bees and is also a popular herb widely used in traditional herbal medicine and less frequently as a culinary herb. This hard-working plant’s side hustle is insect repellant. When bee balm’s leaves are crushed and applied to the skin, they release a scent that helps repel mosquitoes. You can also place crushed leaves around your home or in areas where you spend time, inside or out. Thrives in full sunlight

Does best in constantly damp soil – should be watered at least weekly

Hardiness Zone: Zones 4 through 9

15 of 18 Ageratum Credit: Eugene4873 / Getty Images Ageratum, also known as floss flower, are brilliant little gems useful in any garden. Their insect-repelling power comes from coumarin—a chemical often used in insecticides—that mosquitoes can’t stand the smell of. Butterflies and bees don’t mind the fragrance, and hummingbirds absolutely love it. Warning: These plants are toxic to cats and dogs, so opt for a different one if you have pets. Also, you can increase their effectiveness by crushing their leaves to release their bug-repelling odor, but unlike many plants on this list, rubbing the leaves directly on your skin is discouraged. Grows best in partial to full sunlight

Needs approximately one inch of water weekly

Hardiness Zone: Zones 2 through 11

16 of 18 Venus Fly Trap Credit: Panel Rey / Getty Images There aren’t many of them, but the ultimate in natural pest control is a carnivorous plant. The most popular among them, the Venus fly trap, captures insects and spiders in its claw-like, clamshell-shaped leaves, snaps them shut, and then “eats” its prey by releasing digestive enzymes. While these plants are fascinating and entertaining, they require rather specific conditions. A Venus fly trap needs full sun if planted outside. If kept inside, it craves more light than any sunny window sill can provide, so artificial light is in order. The Venus fly trap also likes wet feet, meaning if in a pot, its roots must always be sitting in water. And it must be distilled or clean rainwater, because it can’t handle hard water that comes from most of our taps. Needs to be planted in full sunlight

Requires distilled or clean rainwater (tap water is too harsh)

Must be fed insects, blood worms, or fish food if unable to catch food on its own

Hardiness Zone: Zones 6 through 10

17 of 18 Chrysanthemums Credit: DEV IMAGES/Getty Images Chrysanthemums are hardy perennials known for their bold colors, full flower heads, and ability to brighten up garden beds, porches, and patios. Thanks to a compound called pyrethrum, chrysanthemums repel a wide range of pests, including ants, roaches, fleas, ticks, and even bedbugs. In fact, pyrethrum is so effective that it’s often used in natural insecticides. While the blooms are beautiful, its real bug-banishing power lies in the leaves and flowers, which release their scent when crushed or brushed against. Thrives in full sun

Prefers well-drained soil and consistent moisture

Hardiness Zone: Zones 5 through 9

Common Name: Begonia Botanical Name: Begonia spp. Family: Begoniaceae Plant Type: Perennial, annual, bulb, tuber, shrub Mature Size: 8 in.-5 ft. tall, 4 in.-1 ft. wide Sun Exposure: Partial, shade Soil Type: Loamy, well-draining Soil pH: Acidic (5.5 to 6.5) Bloom Time: Spring, summer, fall Flower Color: Red, pink, orange, yellow, white Hardiness Zones: Zones 9-11 (USDA) Native Area: South America, Central America, Asia, Africa Toxicity: Toxic to dogs and cats

Begonia Care

Relatively easy to grow, begonias prefer warm climates and rich, fertile, well-drained soil. Plant them after the last spring frost when the soil is warm. Seeds take a few weeks to months to germinate, and some begonia varieties grow quickly. Most importantly, begonias cannot tolerate freezing temperatures, so bring them indoors before the first frost

You can also grow begonias indoors, but meeting their light and humidity needs is more challenging.

Begonias are prolific seed producers—1 ounce of begonia seed produces up to 1 million seedlings—which have escaped cultivation in parts of Florida and Georgia, spreading in roadsides, old fields, overgrazed pastures, and wastelands.

Light

Depending on the variety, begonias need full or partial sunlight. Most begonias do best when planted in an area with morning sun and afternoon shade. In hot climates, avoid planting begonias in strong direct sunlight, which is detrimental to the plant and dries out the soil faster.

Soil

If the flower bed or garden area is not rich in organic matter, amend it or work in fertilizer before planting. The soil should be damp but well-drained and not oversaturated because excessive moisture causes rot.

When growing begonias in containers or hanging baskets, a combination of potting mix or leaf mold, loamy garden soil, and coarse sand helps with soil moisture retention and provides the necessary drainage.

Water

Keep the soil continuously damp but do not saturate it. Wet or soggy ground causes root rot. Water when the first few inches of soil are dry but avoid letting the soil dry out completely. water the plant base instead of the leaves to minimize the risk of fungal diseases.

Temperature And Humidity

Begonias are tropical and sub-tropical plants that thrive in warm, humid conditions mimicking their native environment. They do best in temperatures above 60°F and suffer cold damage at 45°F. One exception is the hardy begonia (B. grandis), which survive temperatures as low as 23°F.

If you are growing begonias indoors, using a humidifier contributes to the plant’s health and improves its chances of extending its lifespan as a perennial.

Fertilizer

Begonias are heavy feeders, but should only be fertilized during the growing season. For best flower production, fertilize begonias in flower beds every three to four weeks and begonias in containers every two weeks with a high-phosphorus flower fertilizer like 15-30-15. Dilute water-soluble fertilizers to half-strength.

Do not fertilize young seedlings or cuttings, and stop fertilizing when the plant’s growth slows down in October.

Credit: sasimoto / Getty Images

Types Of Begonias

Cane-Type Begonias: They get their name from their stems, which are tall and woody, with prominent bamboo-like joints. This group includes angel-wing begonias, named for their folded, often spotted or speckled leaves, which resemble wings. Cane-type begonias, such as ‘Bubbles’ and ‘Honeysuckle,’ have multiple stems, some reaching 5 feet or more. Most bear profuse large clusters of white, pink, orange, or red flowers from early spring through autumn, and some are even everblooming.

They get their name from their stems, which are tall and woody, with prominent bamboo-like joints. This group includes angel-wing begonias, named for their folded, often spotted or speckled leaves, which resemble wings. Cane-type begonias, such as ‘Bubbles’ and ‘Honeysuckle,’ have multiple stems, some reaching 5 feet or more. Most bear profuse large clusters of white, pink, orange, or red flowers from early spring through autumn, and some are even everblooming. Dragonwing Begonias: A hybrid between angel-wing (cane-type) and semperflorens begonias, this variety has shiny green leaves with bright red flowers that bloom from spring until frost. Dragonwing begonias are excellent as bedding plants and in containers. Plant them in morning sun and light afternoon shade; they are prone to burning in the hot afternoon sun.

A hybrid between angel-wing (cane-type) and semperflorens begonias, this variety has shiny green leaves with bright red flowers that bloom from spring until frost. Dragonwing begonias are excellent as bedding plants and in containers. Plant them in morning sun and light afternoon shade; they are prone to burning in the hot afternoon sun. Semperflorens Begonias: Also known as fibrous, bedding, or wax begonias, dwarf and taller strains are grown annually in garden beds or containers. They bloom from spring through fall, producing many tiny flowers in a range of white through red. They thrive in full sun in the Upper South and prefer filtered shade elsewhere.

Also known as fibrous, bedding, or wax begonias, dwarf and taller strains are grown annually in garden beds or containers. They bloom from spring through fall, producing many tiny flowers in a range of white through red. They thrive in full sun in the Upper South and prefer filtered shade elsewhere. Hardy Begonias: Several begonias are hardy throughout the South, but B. grandis, known as hardy begonia, is the best known. It grows from a tuber and reaches 2-3 feet tall and wide, with pink or white summer flowers borne in drooping clusters. Hardy begonias like moist, woodland- type soil and light shade. They are excellent planted with other shade-loving plants such as ferns, hostas, and hellebores.

Several begonias are hardy throughout the South, but B. grandis, known as hardy begonia, is the best known. It grows from a tuber and reaches 2-3 feet tall and wide, with pink or white summer flowers borne in drooping clusters. Hardy begonias like moist, woodland- type soil and light shade. They are excellent planted with other shade-loving plants such as ferns, hostas, and hellebores. Tuberous Begonias: These magnificent large-flowered hybrids grow from tubers. They range from plants with saucer-size blooms and a few upright stems to multi-stemmed hanging basket types covered with tiny flowers. Except for some rare kinds, they bloom in summer and fall in almost every color except blue.

Credit: Elizabeth Fernandez/Getty Images

Pruning

Begonias need pruning during their active growing season to maintain healthy stems; if left untouched, they tend to get leggy. Using clean, sharp pruners, cut back leggy stems to encourage new and bushier growth. In addition, remove dead or diseased leaves as well as spent flowers.

Propagating Begonias

When you bring in your annual begonias indoors for the winter, the plants often grow leggy. Propagating begonias from stems or leaf blades is an easy, economical way to produce new, strong plants. Depending on the begonia variety, there are slight differences in the propagation methods but generally, using cuttings is the simplest and fastest way to achieve the best results.

Here’s how to propagate both annual and perennial begonias using stem cuttings:

In the spring, identify mature stems with a few nodes. Disregard any stems that are fibrous or woody. Take 4-inch long cuttings below a node, using a clean knife or gardening scissors. Remove the lower leaves and dip each cut stem into rooting hormone (optional). Fill a container with well-draining potting mix. Use your fingers or a pencil to poke deep holes. Place the stem cuttings in each hole and gently pack the soil around them. To help retain moisture and promote humidity, place a clear plastic bag or humidity dome over the entire container without touching the stems or leaves. Keep the soil moist while the plants form roots, which takes about three to four weeks. In six to eight weeks, the transplants should be ready for larger containers or planting outdoors.

Instead of using a stem, you can also propagate begonias from a large leaf blade. Cut a healthy, mature leaf with a sharp knife where it meets the stem. Insert the leaf stem in the soil and follow the directions for stem cuttings.

How To Grow Begonias From Seed

Starting begonias from seed is more challenging due to the minuscule size of the seeds, and it is also lengthier than vegetative propagation from cuttings.

To have begonia transplants ready for transplanting after the last spring frost, start the seeds indoors about three months before your average last frost date.

Fill a seed starting tray with damp seed starting mix. Place the seeds on the surface and lightly press them down; do not cover them, as they need light to germinate. Place the tray in a location with indirect light and temperatures around 70 to 75°F. Keep the soil consistently moist. The seedlings should emerge in about three weeks. Continue providing natural light to seedlings or grow under fluorescent plant lights. Turn lights off at night to give seedlings a rest from the heat. When seedlings contain two leaves each, thin them out to give them room to spread. Add a fertilizer after one month of seedling growth. Transplant begonias to their final location after the last frost.

Keep in mind that if you collect begonia seeds from a hybrid plant (most of the commonly grown varieties are hybrids), the seeds won’t produce plants that are true to the parent. Propagating the plant from cuttings produces more predictable results.

Potting And Repotting Begonias

Begonias do well in pots, adding a pop of color to container gardens. Potted begonias live for two to three years.

Choose a pot with large drainage holes and fill it with potting soil mixed with compost. Place the container in full sun or shade, depending on what the specific variety needs. Begonias like to be slightly rootbound, so look for small pots and gradually move up one size when they need repotting.

Overwintering

Winter care depends on the variety of begonias, tuberous or fibrous.

Move begonias that grow from rhizomes indoors during the winter and regularly deadhead the plant to maintain its appearance and health, which will also prevent diseases. Tuberous begonias need little watering to maintain growth. Frequent watering will encourage new growth or rot the bulbs. Continue pruning weak sprouts if the growth continues, and suspend watering until the spring. Remove moldy or rotten tubers.

Fibrous or root-bound begonias need indirect sunlight, healthy and moist soil, and infrequent watering. Do not scorch the plants with too much direct light or heat. Wait until you are sure the final frost of the season has passed before moving plants outside. Similar to hardening off seedlings, slowly introduce begonias to the outdoor conditions.

Tuberous begonias that are planted in a flower bed die back yearly. Dig up and store the tubers indoors for replanting the following year. You can also bring potted tuberous begonias indoors once the plants become dormant. Place them in a cool (above 45°F), dry, and dark spot until spring.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

When grown in humid conditions without proper air circulation or in oversaturated soil, begonias are susceptible to fungal diseases including stem rot, Botrytis blight, and powdery mildew. If you notice those diseases in their early stages, removing infected leaves might be sufficient to control the spread; otherwise, apply a fungicide for use on ornamental plants and follow the label instructions.

You might find mealybugs, spider mites, scales, and thrips on your plants. Begonias as sensitive to insecticidal soap, so prevention and early detection are critical. Use insecticidal soaps sparingly to make sure no leaf scorch occurs.

How To Get Begonias To Bloom

In partial sun and ideal temperature conditions, begonias bloom for up to six months. Fertilize regularly with a high-phosphorus plant food to ensure blooming.

Deadheading also encourages more blooms. Begonia stems are pliable, so use your fingers to remove spent blooms, deadheading the wilted or dead flowers to make room for a new showing.

Common Problems With Begonias

Generally, begonias are easy to care for but if they are grown in unsuitable conditions, they may exhibit signs of stress. Here’s what to watch out for:

Browning Tips

Browning leaves result from too much direct or harsh sunlight or underwatering. If not watered sufficiently, the foliage dries out and turns brown.

If growing begonias indoors or in a dry climate, lack of humidity is often an issue. Indoors, do not place indoor begonias near air vents.

Leaves Turning Yellow

Yellow leaves are a classic sign of overwatering. If yellowing persists, white spots might appear, signifying powdery mildew is present. Let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again. For potted plants, use a container with large drainage holes and amend the potting soil with peat.

Leaves With Holes

If you find holes throughout the leaves of your begonias or a slimy residue, the culprits are slugs and snails. Remove them by hand or sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the plants. Made from sediment of fossilized algae, it is a natural pest deterrent, Reapply it after a heavy rain.

Venus flytrap care (Dionaea muscipula) is comparable to pet ownership—though in this case, your little green pet has hungry bifold jaws with spiky fringed “teeth.” In order to grow a Venus flytrap indoors, you need to provide it different care than other houseplants you’re probably used to growing (and yes, this involves feeding it bugs—but not as often as you may think). Follow these essential Venus flytrap care tips, and watch the carnivorous plant thrive.

Venus Flytrap Overview Genus Name Dionaea Common Name Venus Flytrap Plant Type Houseplant, Perennial Light Part Sun, Sun Height 1 to 5 inches Width 3 to 5 inches Flower Color White Foliage Color Blue/Green, Purple/Burgundy Special Features Good for Containers Zones 10, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 Propagation Division, Leaf Cuttings, Seed

Where to Grow Venus Flytrap

Instead of originating one planet away from Earth, Venus flytraps are perennials native to boggy areas of coastal North and South Carolina. They grow in moist, acidic soils in full sun, but most varieties survive winter outdoors only in Zones 8-10. Although some varieties can live in colder zones with protection, most gardeners grow them as houseplants that summer outdoors and winter indoors. Gardeners in cold winter climates should grow Venus flytraps in a moist environment, such as an open terrarium, that can go indoors during winter.

Credit: Evgeniya Vlasova / BHG

Venus Flytrap Care Tips

For your Venus flytrap to thrive, it’s best to replicate the plant’s natural growing conditions—bright, humid, and moist.

Light

Venus flytraps do best in at least six hours of bright sunlight per day. When they are grown inside under artificial lights, keep flytraps 4 to 7 inches away from fluorescent lights. If your plant’s traps don’t show a pink interior (depending on variety) or the leaves look long and spindly, provide more light.

Soil and Water

Venus flytrap thrives in poor, acidic soil that stays damp but still has good drainage. Avoid using regular potting soil, some of which may have added fertilizers. A blend of one-third perlite (or sand) and two-thirds sphagnum peat moss provides the best drainage and moisture retention.

Keep the soil constantly moist. One way to do this is to place the flytrap pot in a saucer or tray of water about an inch deep. Never give your plants what comes out of your tap; it’s usually too alkaline or might have too many minerals. Instead, rely on rainwater or use distilled water.

Temperature and Humidity

Venus flytrap prefers a temperature of 70°F-95°F, although some varieties can survive 40°F in the winter with protection. For the best Venus flytrap care, keep the environment humid. Good air circulation is also important when growing Venus flytrap plants, so turn on a fan in the room where you keep them.

Fertilizer

Never add fertilizer, and don’t add lime to the soil of Venus flytrap plants. These plants get the nutrients they need from their prey.

Credit: Evgeniya Vlasova / BHG

What to Feed a Venus Flytrap

Although flytraps are carnivorous, they can go for long periods (a month or two) without eating insects. If you grow them outdoors, they’ll get enough to eat naturally. If you’re growing Venus flytraps indoors, you’ll have to feed them small bugs such as flies and beetles periodically. When you’re feeding a flytrap, don’t give it any insects larger than a third of the size of the trap. Otherwise, the trap won’t be able to fully close and begin digesting the food.

If you need bugs to feed your Venus flytrap, you can usually purchase freeze-dried worms or crickets at pet stores.

It doesn’t matter if the bug is alive or not, but the trap needs to be triggered by movement before it will close. For dead prey, after placing the bug in an open trap, gently touch a small paintbrush to the inside of the trap until you see the trap start to close. Only trigger traps to close when there is food for the plant. Playing with the traps just to make them close wastes the plant’s energy, which can lead to its decline.

Don’t feed a Venus flytrap any meat, including chicken, steak, sausage, or hot dogs. Also, refrain from offering fruit or candy.

Potting and Repotting Venus Flytrap

When you receive a Venus flytrap, pot it in a small, deep pot using a recommended potting medium, such as one-third perlite and two-thirds peat moss. The depth of the pot encourages root growth, as does tray watering, so choose a minimum of a 4-inch-deep pot that has a drainage hole and a tray. Deeper is even better.

As for width of the pot for a Venus flytrap, the more soil around the roots, the better the insulation, so in cold areas, a wider pot is preferable. How wide? A single Venus flytrap usually grows comfortably in a 5-inch wide pot. When the plant becomes crowded—or annually, even if it doesn’t become crowded—repot it using fresh potting medium.

Pests and Problems

Venus flytraps aren’t bothered by many pests but might attract aphids, spider mites, or fungus gnats. If the plant has aphids, submerge it in water (distilled, not tap!) for two days. Wait a week and repeat the process. If the plant has a severe aphid infestation, apply an insecticidal soap or neem oil, which is also effective against spider mites.

In the case of fungus gnats, the larvae cause the problem. Control them by drenching the soil with Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). To prevent attracting them, keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy.

At times, the Venus flytrap leaves and traps turn black or burnt-looking, causing new owners to be alarmed. The plant is likely entering its dormant period, at which point the foliage dies only to emerge refreshed months later. However, an unhealthy Venus flytrap can display black leaves or traps due to other reasons: low humidity, letting the plant dry out too often, and root rot among them. In these cases, correct the problem and trim the black leaves and traps from the plant; they can’t be saved.

How to Propagate Venus Flytrap

You can propagate Venus flytrap by division, leaf cuttings, or seeds. Most people choose division or leaf cuttings to propagate their Venus flytraps. Propagating from seed is possible but complicated.

To propagate by division:

The best time for division is late winter to spring. Remove the plant from the container and use a sharp knife to cut it into two or more sections. Each division must contain a portion of the root system. Repot the divisions immediately in individual pots filled with a perlite/peat moss mix.

To propagate from leaf cuttings:

In early summer, remove an entire leaf by pulling out and down. It must have a tiny bit of rhizome at the end to be useful for propagation. Insert the leaf (or several) into a small pot filled with well-draining potting medium. Put the pot in a plastic bag to keep it from drying out. As a leaf turns black, trim it off. About six months later, a tiny but recognizable Venus flytrap will appear. If several leaves were planted in a pot, separate them at this point.

Types of Venus Flytraps

Plant breeders have been working with Venus flytraps and have come out with new varieties, including a few with large burgundy-red traps. These unusual varieties, along with familiar favorites, are available from specialty garden centers or online retailers. Popular varieties of Venus flytrap include:

‘Red Dragon’

The leaves and traps of Dionaea muscipula ‘Red Dragon’, also known as Dionaea muscipula ‘Adai Ryu’, turn dark red in full sunlight. During winter dormancy, ‘Red Dragon’ drops all its leaves but soon bounces back. This striking beauty grows to 4 inches tall and requires minimal protection outdoors in Zones 7-9. In colder regions, mulch the plant or grow it indoors as a houseplant.

‘King Henry’

An excellent starter plant for newcomers to carnivorous plants, Dionaea muscipula ‘King Henry’ is large, fast-growing, and hardy in Zones 5–9 (with protection in colder areas). It has green leaves and large traps with red interiors. This flytrap grows up to 5 inches tall.

‘Gremlin’

Dionaea muscipula ‘Gremlin’ is a charming all-green flytrap that isn’t as tall as some at first but makes up for its size with a huge amount of traps. It forms dense clumps and spreads rapidly over a short period. The traps increase in size as the growth points age—some up to 1 inch long. It is rumored to spread to fill a 12-inch bowl within a year.

‘Big Mouth’

As the name implies, Dionaea muscipula ‘Big Mouth’ produces large red-mouthed traps fringed in green that hug the ground rather than grow on upright stems. It grows to 3–5 inches. This flytrap is hardy in Zones 6-9, with protection in colder areas.

‘B52’

The bright-red traps of Dionaea muscipula ‘B52’ are massive and reach 1.5 to 2 inches in length. ‘B52’ tends to clump, and it reaches 3-5 inches tall, so the traps look like they are almost sitting on the ground. ‘B52’ is hardy in Zones 6-9, with protection in colder areas.

‘DC-XL’

Another large variety, Dionaea muscipula ‘DC-XL’ has individual traps that reach about 2 inches long, with pretty red mouths. Less susceptible to problems than other varieties, it can grow outdoors in Zones 6-9, with protection in colder areas.

Many types of carnivorous plants, including the Venus flytrap, are federally endangered or threatened because of habitat loss and overcollection. Make sure to purchase your plants from a reputable source that doesn’t collect from wild populations.

Credit: Evgeniya Vlasova / BHG

Winter Dormancy for Venus Flytraps

Like many other plants, Venus flytraps need a period of winter dormancy when they appear to be dead (the leaves may die back) but are merely resting. Keep the plant at 35°F to 50°F during this time. Don’t let terrariums freeze, or the plants may die, and the glass may break. At about the spring equinox, when days start growing longer, begin to increase warmth and light.